Stratoliner Vibration at 2500 rpm and up - Motorcycle Forums at Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine Motorcycle Cruiser

Stratoliner Vibration at 2500 rpm and up

  
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Stratoliner Vibration at 2500 rpm and up

 
Ckerr1 Ckerr1
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/15/09
02:35 PM

Has anyone experienced Strat vibration/buss problems? This will put my right foot and hand to sleep. Dealer said it's the Vance and Hines pipe causing it. I have a very un-stock Electra Glide that has less vibration than my Strat. Help.  

 
Phoenix9 Phoenix9
New User | Posts: 24 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 11/15/09
10:39 PM

I don't think it's the pipes, I think it's just the nature of the pushrod engine. I notice the vibration getting bad at around 3000 RPM on my Roadliner. Hopped on a 106" *** Victory with OHCams and the thing ran relatively vibration free through the 4000+ RPM range compared to the Roadliner. Star/Yamaha really went after the old school sound and design and, although it is a great motor that could pull stumps out of the ground, they pay the price with the vibration. I don't care what pipes you put on there, you will feel it.....that is why you will find A LOT of 'Liner riders screaming for a 6th overdrive gear on that bike.  

 
AZPiR8King AZPiR8King
New User | Posts: 20 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/16/09
02:57 PM

There is a HUGE difference in total CC's and stroke between a 98 CI H-D and a 113 CU Yammie. I have test ridden Big Dogs, Bourgets and Saxon's with 113+ CU motors and ALL vibrated more than a stock H-D or my 04' Roadstar. Long stoke motors with big pistons. Physics says hard to keep still. It's the cubes, not the pipe. Smack the dealer in the head for throwing the BS your way. I can't stand ignorance or "agenda" driven troubleshooting help from Dealers. Let Vance and Hines know that the Yammie dealer says their pipe is the problem. Wanna Bet they can prove him wrong?

BTW, its not just the Strat and Raider riders screaming for a 6th Gear, I have been griping to every Yammie Rep I run into that they need to go one more gear AND sell an upgrade for the older bikes. Someone will make a crap-load of money the day that kit is offered (dealers and the maker alike!!!).  
PiR8
Current Editor Quick Throttle
Midwest Edition
Former Editor,
Quick Throttle Magazine Southwest
'04 Roadstar
'80 FLH
'75 Sporty
'73 Kawi Green Machine

 
strato07 strato07
New User | Posts: 10 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 11/18/09
11:21 PM

While on this topic,does anyone know exactly which pulley goes on the rear can be replaced to drop rpm? part numbers,also for belt? how about a rear tire..anything out there stock size or one size up besides Bridgestone Dunlop? Much appreciate the feedback! Randy Strato07...1998 vmax  

 
AZPiR8King AZPiR8King
New User | Posts: 20 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/30/09
09:50 AM

Go here for tooth info. Less teeth, more top end speed, lower RPM...but also LOWER stoplight torque to tire....
http://www.hellrisercustoms.com/bikes/1/category/Engine/subcat/Front%20pulley/item/STR-4WM27-82  
PiR8
Current Editor Quick Throttle
Midwest Edition
Former Editor,
Quick Throttle Magazine Southwest
'04 Roadstar
'80 FLH
'75 Sporty
'73 Kawi Green Machine

 
AZPiR8King AZPiR8King
New User | Posts: 20 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/30/09
09:57 AM

I run a 180 on my rear...just about as big as you can go without bouncing the fenders sides. Also, in reference to my previous post, change the drive pulley and leave the rear pulley alone. More bang for the buck when altering the RPM.  
PiR8
Current Editor Quick Throttle
Midwest Edition
Former Editor,
Quick Throttle Magazine Southwest
'04 Roadstar
'80 FLH
'75 Sporty
'73 Kawi Green Machine

 

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