Advice on US cross country trip

Hey fellow riders!

I am planning a trip cross country, starting in NYC to LA and back. I want to use the northenmost states going towards LA, and the mid to southern most states going back. I was just wondering about when would be the best time in terms of weather? I will be staying in hotels, but I will be most likely riding a hayabusa, so wet terrain is not exactly suitable. A bit of drizzle is fine, but I am trying to avoid torrential downpours. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you  

A cross country trip any time of year is bound to encounter some stormy weather.  Better plan some rain delay days if you want to stay dry and even then....good luck!

I'm doing an around the country trip this summer as well from SF across the south and back the north, but I'm counting on rain gear to make it doable.  

Buy Frog Toggs, and Damn the Torpedoes... Full speed ahead.
Good waterproof gear (and feeling comfortable in riding in the rain) could get you where you want to go.
Both my wife and I took MSF course in the rain (different days). I've ridden in snow, tropical storms, but... riding at night is still a freak out, don't do it much.

If you have chain drive, pack some chain lube. Use it after rain. I didn't... bad JuJu.  

burning up to get & stay in the saddle. alittle rain is ok 4 me but how will it effect my hypercharger? ive been told it can be a problem  

Don't think it matters much in anything less than a monsoon. You've got a 4 in by 1 in area going thru the air at less than 80 fps (if sane). I don't think you'll pick up enough moisture to drown the motor... may run a little odd. Moisture is often used to imitate higher octane fuel.   works too.  

frbock said...
>If you have chain drive, pack some chain lube. Use it after rain. I didn't... bad JuJu.

You were using water soluble chain lube?!? I didn't know anyone even made such crap. I think it's time to start hanging the people who are pushing so-called 'green' products on us.

regards,
Joe  

Nope, I've used gear lube, waxes, and various other manufacturer recommended lubes. Cleaned the chain before changing, in case you were wondering.
The real trick is you've got to put it on often enough. Cheap chain, o-ring x-ring... doesn't matter. They need to be done on a regular basis, AND  even after all that, something that could get past the front line (even on o/x-ring)... the master link isn't treated. It fails first, and the flex release breaks down the rest of the links rather quickly.  

Strange...

Since lubes tend to accumulate dirt, people who occasionally ride on dirt roads find their O-ring chains last longer if they use no lube at all. They still routinely get over 15,000 miles from an unlubed O-ring chain. O-rings are subject to being damaged by grains of sand that get between the side plates of the links and cut the O-rings as the links pivot on their axles. At some point, the damage gets bad enough to allow the encapsulated grease, inside the axles, to escape and then the chain starts stretching just like an oldtech chain does.

>...the master link isn't treated.

Of course it is. The steel parts that make up the master link are alloyed and heat treated (tempered) the same as the steel parts that make up the rest of the links, unless you used a master link for some other kind of chain.

regards,
Joe  

Sorry, should have said "lube isn't vacuum injected into the master link and sealed".  

I don't know what difference you think vacuum injecting the lube makes, but the master link definitely is lubed internally and sealed by O-rings. As I have pointed out to you in the past, you damaged your new O-ring chain by using the wrong kind of master link when you put it together.

regards,
Joe  

I didn't.
It was done professionally.
And no, you are wrong. The master link is an external piece that has to be inserted to connect the 2 ends of the chain together. All other links are assembled in the factory. The master link is put in in the field.
A master link is basically a link that is put into 2 existing openings in the chain. No pre lube in the openings, no vacuum seals... nothing. The then clip it on the other side to keep it in place. No seals, no nothin. There is the rivit type master link, that almost nobody does, but, I'm talking about the 99% of the chains that are installed.  

What time of year are you planning your trip? That will definitely make a difference. I live in North Texas and we usually have rains in the spring and early October (around the Byron Nelson Championship and State Fair), but it's bloody hot during the summer for those not acclimated to 100 degree temps. For example, we just passed a string of 9 of the last 11 or 12 days of over 100-degree temps, but this week there's chances of rain every day and temps will be in the low 90s, the the 100s will be back, to be sure.

In addition to rain gear, I'd also suggest a mesh jacket. They actually help keep you cooler in the heat. I recently got a Fieldsheer Congo Air Mesh jacket and I'd say it keeps me easily 7 degrees cooler than letting the sun beat down directly on my skin. I've worn it in 103 degree temps and it made a positive difference. An added plus is it has elbow and shoulder armor and a back pad just in case you come across the many cagers here who insist on yakking on their cell phones, putting on make-up, reading, or generally not paying attention to the road or other occupants of same.

If you're interested in such a jacket, the best price I found was at Competition Accessories. They sell it for about $90, and it carries an MSRP of about $170.

Good luck on your trip!  

That's a good description of an oldtech masterlink, but it's obvious that you've never examined an O-ring masterlink.  

On thread,
I have one of the chiller vests. They fit perfectly inside a 1 gallon zip lock. roll it up stuff in, and fill with water. Let it soak for about 10 min. Pull it out, and squeeze as much moisture as you can (without rolling it up, and twisting like a towel). Put it on under your vest, and you won't feel a thing. They are slow enough that you won't get a chill from it. First time I put one on, I went riding, and was muttering that I wasn't cool. Went past the bank thermometer, and it said 95. I decided "not cool" was fine under those conditions. They work for up to 4 hours, so, if you re-fill them when you gas up, you're good.

Joe,
You're talking a master link like this?
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/ProductDetail?sku=ZA60318&N=28001069%2028004378&Ne=36365&Ntk=All&Ntt=&Ns=DefaultSort&results=10&No=

Had one on the Omega, still failed in a tropical storm. Unless you fill the hole, and then manage to put the pins thru without leaving an air gap in the lubricant, it WILL FAIL.
But, this is all off thread if he doesn't have a chain.  

You'll definitely see some rain, that's for sure, but don't underestimate the climate at higher altitudes (are you going, say, N. Dakota/S. Dakota north or Colorado north?). In that case, you want to take you're northern portion to L.A. in the early summer/late spring...after memorial day but before June 21st...this will keep the high altitudes pleasant (hopefully) and the hotter western deserts shouldn't be unbearable yet. Good luck.