conflicting advice for winter storage

The two years I lived in Norwich, Connecticutt, I commuted to Groton on a bike. There were usually only a few days each winter when I climbed in the neighbor's car to caj a ride to work. There are very few places in the lower 48 states where it is actually necessary to do layup maintenance on a motorcycle. It's more a matter of rider attitude than necessity.

regards,
Joe  

:
If you drain the tank and spray the tank with fogging oil, you're good.



Okay, I've been thinking about that statement for a couple months. It bothered me the first time I read it, but I wasn't sure it was wrong. It is a completely different use of fogging oil than anything I have heard of. I expect it isn't wrong, but it certainly won't protect the cylinders, which is what fogging oil is all about.

The oil scraper ring minimises the oil in the chamber to begin with. As you ride, gasoline washes out what little oil gets past the rings. When you let the engine set for a long period, the cylinder with a valve open, will get moisture intrusion and corrosion can start. The purpose of fogging oil is to prevent that corrosion in the chamber.

I've heard of three ways to apply the fogging oil to the chambers. I've used two of those methods.

1) Hot engine- Remove the air cleaner, start the engine, spray fogging oil into the air intake while revving the engine just enough to keep it from stalling. When the engine exhaust is smoking heavily, stop revving it and let it stall, while continuing to spray fogging oil into it. As soon as it stalls stop spraying the oil.

2) Cold engine- Remove spark plugs and spray into spark plug hole of cylinder that is at BDC. Rotate crankshaft slowly and repeat with other cylinders as each comes to BDC. When all cylinders are sprayed, reinstall spark plugs.

3) Put gas and fogging oil mixture in small gas tank. Connect this small tank to the carb. Start engine and run until engine exhaust is smoking heavily, revving engine as needed to keep it from stalling. Disconnect gas tank and continue running engine until carb bowl is dry and engine dies.

The third method is the one I have never tried.

regards,
Joe  

Only point I'd like to include is:
My mom had a stroke in mid '06, and I ended up selling the car to my brother in early '07. The tires did develop a flat spot.  I pumped them to near the max  pressure, and then ran them on the highway for about 300 mi. Fixed it.
Except that I was executor and trying to conserve assets, I probably would have just slapped on new tires.
They did run out to true after a couple hours.

The same tires are on the car today, so, I didn't scrimp on safety, but, I admit the 1st hour sucked.  

Living in one of the locations in the 48 that it is better not to ride in the winter I run a full tank of nonoxygenated fule for a good last ride then add stableizer and top off tank with nonoxygenated fule,ride home, remove seat and hook up battery tender. every few weeks I roll the bike a few feet forward or back. when we sart getting deiced roads it's remove tender replace seat and go for first ride then cahnge oil after warmup ride.(I added a quick disconnect power system so I can unplug power from bike and plug in tender)