Hi,
  I have a new C90T Suz. Boulevard.  I noticed when test riding it that the clutch didn't really catch (or start the bike rolling)until it was most of the way out.  The local sales guy said that was normal for all hydraulic clutches. True? I just thought that it would release a lot sooner. I also accidentally shifted into a higher gear WITHOUT having the clutch pulled in.  Not good to do but I was wondering if I need to have the clutch adjusted.  Any help would be appreciated.  

Tebpac,
I have same problem with 98 Suzuki 1500LC I just bought.  The Thumbwheel adjustment on the clutch handle is in #4 position which is the best position for lowering the friction point but is still almost at the end of travel.  Does anyone know does this mean the clutch is worn out?  There's only 9,000 miles on this bike. Thanks, Bill from Clarkston, Mi.  

I have a C50T Suzuki Boulevard and noticed the same thing with the clutch.  It makes it difficult for taking off from a complete stop for me.  Some times, when I start the bike with the clutch completely disengaged and in first gear, the bike jumps forward a bit.  This just doesnt sound right to me either.  Any help with this out there?  

None of my bikes have had a hydraulic clutch on them, however the only way to adjust where the clutch engages on my truck's hydraulic clutch, is to leave some air in the system. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same way for bike clutches. After all, one of the main advantages to a hydraulic clutch is that if it works at all, it will continue to work at the same point in the lever's travel. That doesn't change from wear.

Tebpac asked...
I also accidentally shifted into a higher gear WITHOUT having the clutch pulled in.  Not good to do but I was wondering if I need to have the clutch adjusted.

That is normal. The clutch is needed for shifting into gear from neutral and for multiple shifts, such as when you accelerate hard to match traffic and merge, then upshift twice to get from 3rd to 5th. For all other shifting, while the clutch does make it smoother, it isn't strictly necessary if you use the throttle carefully. This why it's possible to still ride the bike home, when the clutch cable breaks. Manual transmissions in cars work that way, too. At least, they have since not too long after WWII :-)

Bikes with electric shifters don't use the clutch to shift between gears. They just momentarily inturrupt the ignition signal, so the spark plugs stop firing while the shift is actually taking place.

Some race bike engines have so little weight in the crankshaft that the engine can easily be accidently overrevved to destruction. No one uses the clutch while working their way up through the gears on those bikes.

rzy3h9 asked...
The Thumbwheel adjustment on the clutch handle is in #4 position which is the best position for lowering the friction point but is still almost at the end of travel.  Does anyone know does this mean the clutch is worn out?

Probably not. Oil bath clutches don't wear out, like dry clutches do. You can burn them, necessitating replacement of the friction plates, but for the most part when a wet clutch starts slipping, it's due to using the wrong oil, weak clutch springs or a mechanical misadjustment.

When the clutch engagement/disengagement point occurs where the lever is almost all the way out, that is not the end of travel. That is the beginning of travel and is an indication that the clutch is working correctly. When the clutch engagement/disengagement point is where the lever is almost touching the handgrip, that is near the end of travel and is a sign that there is a problem.

djtj2000 asked...
Some times, when I start the bike with the clutch completely disengaged and in first gear, the bike jumps forward a bit.  This just doesnt sound right to me either.

This too, is normal behavior for a wet clutch. It happens more when the oil is cold and the oil between the plates acts more like an adhesive than a lubricant.

Do not start the bike in gear. Start the bike in neutral, then if the engine is cold, work the clutch lever a few times before putting the bike in gear. That will free up the plates movements somewhat, reducing the apparent stickiness of the cold oil.

Besides, there are things you should be taking the time to check when you start the bike for the first time each day. Daily checks such as turn signals, brake signals, headlight beams... It's just easier to do those checks without having to hold the clutch in while doing them.

regards,
Joe  

Hi Joe..thanks so much for your informative answer.  Am I to understand that I wont be able to adjust my clutch to get the friction point closer than being almost all the way out?  It makes it tough for me to start off from a complete stop. I'm a new rider...can you tell!    

For all intents and purposes, no, the friction point is not adjustable with a hydraulic clutch.

With a hydraulic clutch, the friction point is determined by the relative cylinder volumes and the location of the piston port, none of which are adjustable. If you adjust anything else, the hydraulic action will simply compensate for the change and restore the friction point back to where it was. The only way to actually change the distance the slave piston moves, as it disengages the clutch, is to replace one of the cylinders. That's the single greatest advantage to using hydraulics, they automatically compensate for any changes that might occur. It's also the greatest drawback, since one size does not fit everyone.

If the problem is a weak hand, you can strengthen your grip with exercise.

If the problem is small hands, you may be able to find a clutch lever that is shaped differently. or alter the lever/rod attachment point with a cam connection to make the lever itself adjustable. It all depends on exactly how the lever is attached to the piston.

If neither of those solutions work for you, you may need to refit your bike with a cable clutch actuator or stick to bikes that have cable clutches.

regards,
Joe  

Hi Joe,
Well it goes to show you how much I know about bikes...Mine does not have the hydraulic clutch so I was able to have it adjusted.  Happy days ahead!!  

HI; I have a C50T and I just adjusted the cable. If you don't like the lenght of the lever throw then adjust it. Make sure that you have at least 1/8-1/4 free play so you know that the clutch is engauged. You can have more if you like. But too much keeps the clutch from disengauging all the way and had to get into gear. ...scruffy